If jewelry is a form of art, then Bvlgari’s Polychroma high jewelry collection is nothing less than a symphony of color, craftsmanship, and cultural storytelling. And behind this kaleidoscopic vision stands Lucia Silvestri, the fearless artistic director who has redefined what luxury jewelry means in the 21st century.
The name Polychroma itself is a clever linguistic fusion: “Poly” meaning many, “chroma” meaning color, and “Roma”—a subtle but heartfelt nod to Bvlgari’s Roman roots. This poetic synthesis speaks volumes, reminding us that every gemstone holds echoes of history, geography, and human artistry.
When Polychroma debuted in the Sicilian town of Taormina, the response was immediate and electric. The Mediterranean setting—steeped in classical architecture and natural beauty—was the perfect backdrop for a collection that celebrates the richness of life and the emotion of color. Lucia Silvestri was there in person, walking collectors and press through each piece like a curator unveiling a private gallery.
As Bvlgari’s creative director of high jewelry, Silvestri is not merely a designer. She is a gemstone hunter, a storyteller, and an intuitive interpreter of emotion through material. Over decades, she has built a reputation for sourcing the rarest gems in the world and transforming them into wearable masterpieces.
The inspiration for Polychroma was simple, but profound—color. “We always work with color,” Lucia explains, “but for this collection, color became the protagonist.” From bold candy-like hues to unconventional pairings of stones, Polychroma dares to play where others stay safe.
Bvlgari has long been known for mixing emeralds, rubies, and sapphires in unconventional ways, but in Polychroma, the boundaries are pushed even further. Unusual gems like fire opals, tourmalines, spinels, and tanzanites are incorporated with rare cuts, vibrant settings, and architectural details to create a fresh, liberated visual language.
Lucia believes that jewelry should be joyful and expressive—not rigid or overly ceremonial. “Jewelry should make you feel something. It should be light, personal, and full of life,” she says. That philosophy breathes through every facet of Polychroma.
Among the most iconic pieces in the collection is the Cosmic Vault necklace, featuring a breathtaking 123-carat cabochon-cut sapphire from Sri Lanka. Lucia spent years searching for this stone—a dream she had held since first seeing the legendary Elizabeth Taylor necklace. When she found it, she knew it had to be the centerpiece of something extraordinary.
The design was inspired by decorative curtains she saw in a Venetian palace—merging architectural heritage with organic brilliance. “You can’t fully understand this necklace until you see the back,” Lucia smiles. “It’s like a hidden secret, crafted for those who appreciate the unseen.”
Another showstopper is a 241-carat faceted emerald—the largest ever used by Bvlgari. The stone’s clarity, hue, and cut are truly one of a kind. Designing around such a gem required countless sketches and technical adjustments. The final result is a masterpiece of Art Deco geometry softened with modern sensibility, letting the emerald remain the undisputed focus while still conveying Bvlgari’s design DNA.
But what sets Polychroma apart isn’t just size or rarity—it’s personality. Lucia treats each stone as a character. “Some are fiery. Some are soft. Some are introverted,” she says. “I don’t just choose them—they choose me.”
This emotional connection with materials resonates deeply with modern luxury consumers, especially in the U.S. More than ever, high-net-worth clients are seeking jewelry that tells a story, expresses identity, and feels like a personal reflection—rather than just a display of wealth.
Lucia understands this intimately. In Beverly Hills and Miami, she’s worked closely with American collectors who bring their own inspirations to the table. One Hollywood producer asked her to design a necklace inspired by a vintage wallpaper passed down through generations. Another requested a color palette that matched the tones of a Rothko painting in her Manhattan apartment. These one-of-a-kind creations elevate Polychroma into the realm of “wearable autobiography.”
In her own words, “If a piece of jewelry doesn’t stir the soul, no matter how expensive it is, it’s meaningless.” This belief in emotional luxury is what differentiates Silvestri’s work from the mass of conventional high jewelry.
The data supports this. According to Bain & Company’s 2024 luxury report, millennial and Gen Z collectors are increasingly drawn to pieces that blend artistic value, ethical sourcing, and personalization. Polychroma hits every one of those notes—with color as its melody.
Lucia has also taken strides toward sustainability. She oversees gemstone sourcing to ensure transparency and legality, and some pieces in the collection incorporate recycled metals. “Luxury must be responsible,” she says. “It can no longer just be beautiful—it must be conscious.”
In the U.S., her influence extends beyond fashion and into the art world. The Met in New York and The Getty in Los Angeles have both approached her for cross-disciplinary exhibits. Her designs are considered benchmarks in contemporary jewelry design—sculptural, sensual, and deeply narrative.
From the sun-drenched streets of Sicily to the penthouses of Manhattan, Polychroma is more than a jewelry collection—it’s a visual language for those who live with intention. In the hands of Lucia Silvestri, Bvlgari isn’t just making jewelry; it’s creating identity, emotion, and legacy.
As the name suggests, Polychroma is a celebration of multiplicity—of cultures, colors, and creative freedom. And Lucia Silvestri? She’s the storyteller who brings them all to life, one gemstone at a time.